HS #97 2023.8.10
Kayaking the Au Train
As you read this, I am likely kayaking the Au Train River in the UP of Michigan. Since Henry David Thoreau wrote an entire book detailing his life on Walden Pond, I will allow myself a newspaper column detailing how to enjoy the good life in Au Train, which sits at the widest North-South point of Lake Superior.
I do so with a bit of trepidation. In eight years of writing columns for the Holland Sentinel on myriad topics including religion and politics, nothing brought the chastisement as did last year’s column on the Michigan UP. I lovingly described it as a place of fresh air, clean water, and rusty pickup trucks. A few (possible) BMW owners took offense. Oh well, here goes:
First, the kayaking. Genesis 5:24 says that Enoch walked with God. Interesting word, “walked.” It connotes making continual progress, but at a non-tiring rate. Kayaking is even better since one can let one’s mind wander while drifting and/or paddling with no need to give attention to curbs and traffic. A broad stream or river allows one to be close to nature – hidden water falls, turtles, muskrats, bald eagles, blue herons, and occasional otters – while immersed in conversation or lost in one’s own thoughts.
Do you know the song, “The Happy Wanderer”? “I love to go a wandering – along the mountain track. And as I go, I love to sing – my knapsack on my back.” I changed the lyrics to “I love to go a kayaking, along the forest stream. And as I go, I love to sing, and think and plan and dream.” Filling the silent woods with robust vocalizing is perhaps the reason I don’t see deer or moose.
My favorite kayak is the Pungo 120. It is long enough to maintain a straight line when desired, and short enough to turn easily. The three-way adjustable seat and easy-access storage are the best I’ve found and the open cockpit allows for bent knees. The burnt orange color repels deer flies that are attracted to the blue one, but the blue color is more easily hidden in the weeds.
Camping with a kayak or canoe is also a great experience. Canoes carry an SUV load of supplies, while still providing almost effortless movement. There are challenges, especially if you have never been without a biffy. Campers devise their own method – some sit on a log, others squat. I’ve called my own idea the “crap-strap.” You likely get the idea from the name - you sit suspended in it as it hooks on the branch of a tree. I’m told someone else had the same idea and name – and took the effort to manufacture them.
Another challenge – finding wood and breaking the larger logs for firewood. With a canoe, it’s easy. Float around the shore where usually there are dead sun-dried limbs suspended above the water. Break them off into the canoe – you’re all set.
How to break the thick ones? I call it “prop and drop.” Prop the branch with one end on a stone or log and the other end on the ground. Drop a heavy rock on it, then pick up the pieces.
Of course, one can also go exploring by car. I spent two weeks in England this past June, but nothing in London’s museums surpassed the novelty of Lakenenland Sculpture Park 17 miles west of Au Train on HYW 28. The 40 acre park (easily driven or walked) contains 80 sculptures by local artist Tom Lakenen. The medium is mainly scrap metal and each has a thoughtful and humorous political message.
The most intriguing item is the welcome sign at the entrance which warmly invites everyone to enjoy the park free of charge 24/7 – EXCEPT the “local members of the planning and zoning boards” who apparently obstructed his plans. There is a legal NO TRESSPASSING sign there forbidding them from entering.
Want to bring some of Au Train home with you? Go berry picking. How to find wild blueberries? Look for cars parked on the side of the road for no apparent reason. Search around tree stumps in particular. Stop after 90 minutes (everything becomes work after 90 minutes – ask any teacher) or when you find yourself bargaining with the mosquitoes.
Wild raspberries are even better – great for freezer jam. Wear long pants and best to use a container that is graduated, large open top, and hangs on the belt. A hospital urinal is perfect.
